Article

Polity (2005) 37, 3–23. doi:10.1057/palgrave.polity.2300002

Fashion and Democratic Relationships*

Joshua Miller, Professor of Government and Law at Lafayette College in Easton, PA, is the author of The Rise and Fall of Democracy in Early America, 1630–1789 (Penn State Press, 1991) and Democratic Temperament: The Legacy of William James (University Press of Kansas, 1997). His essay "No Success Like Failure: Existential Politics in Norman Mailer's The Armies of the Night," appeared in Polity in 1990. He invites correspondence at: millerj@lafayette.edu.

Joshua I Miller1

1Lafayette College

*I would like to thank Brian Weiner for his editorial work, insights, and encouragement, Nicholas Xenos for his challenges, criticisms, and intellectual inspiration, the editorial suggestions of two anonymous reviewers, and Chrystie Neidhardt and Sarah Hazel for research assistance.

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Abstract

Clothing has political significance because it affects the relationships among citizens. Clothing is not simply a private or personal matter; it implies the existence of an intersubjective social world in which one presents oneself and is seen by others. In examining the implications of fashion for political relationships, I will concede that fashion aggravates antagonistic relationships among citizens when it is used to flaunt one's status and wealth, but I will also argue that clothes can also be used to exhibit respect toward others and allegiance to a group. Clothes, therefore, sometimes facilitate the democratic ideal of widely distributed power. Fashion can provoke dialogue about social and political matters, and that dialogue is democratic. When fashion manifests creativity, respect, allegiance, or membership, the relationships that it fosters are potentially democratic.

Keywords:

fashion, clothes, democracy, citizens, action, respect

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